Monday, September 15, 2008

Raising the bar

"Per se" is one of my favorite expressions, because you can sort of throw it into almost any sentence and automatically sound like you have a working, casual knowledge of Latin. It literally means "by itself", and it is the humble name for a restaurant judged to be in a league of its own by many New Yorkers who KNOW how to eat (even if they don't know how to cook.)

When I told Anna that I was going to this zenith of cuisine, she insisted I document my evening. You might think that it would take something away from the refined atmosphere of the classiest restaurant in Manhattan to be taking photos of each course... But everyone was too polite to bat an eyelash at any gauche behavior. (This is a theme of truly fine dining that I have already recognized and appreciated in the context of more "colorful" moments of Ford Family Dining Adventures.) So snap away I did, during the few seconds between each course hitting the table and then disappearing.

It was an enchanting evening, but I regret that I didn't memorize any of the names of the dishes or their ingredients. So we shall see whether this experience informs the culinary activities of the north and south branches of the Cackalacky Kitchen. There were some other courses not pictured here including dainty little salmon sashimi ice cream cones. Don't hold your breath for that one to appear at my next cocktail party.



Oysters and caviar to kick off the menu. I personally got more of a kick out of the little mother-of-pearl spoons and the houndstooth pattern on the dinnerware, but my fellow diners were pretty excited about this.

An interesting combination of different kinds of melons, radishes and pine nuts.

Seven different types of salts - the one in the middle (I kid you not) is brought down the Himalayas on the back of a yak. The waitress told us this with a straight face.

Some fish, I am embarrassed to say I have no idea what kind. I had already started to lose track.

The scallop in some sort of fruity balsalmic sauce was absolute perfection - my favorite course.

This Wagyu steak was served with spinach and mushrooms and a perfect disc of finely sliced potatoes. (Basically an extremely fancy version of french fries, and just as good.) I am never as excited about meat as the trappings around it, but everyone oohed and aahed over this course.

This cheese - barrata - is mozzarella made from cream, and tastes as good as it sounds.

It seemed like a very good idea to celebrate the nearest birthday, which I think was about a month away from our dinner.

If this coffee and doughnut weren't part of the flock of desserts, it might also double as the best breakfast ever.

If I hadn't been stuffed, I can imagine trying to stuff my cheeks like a chipmunk with these freshly made truffles.

Good thing they gave us a goody bag - I can imagine getting really hungry on the way home.

Wednesday, September 10, 2008

Pasta Within Reach

I didn't take any pictures of last night's culinary adventure, because I did not expect it to be notable. It was the first time that I have cooked dinner at home in more than 2 weeks, because I just logged a long stretch of time in the hospital. I had planned to have dinner with a friend, hoping to barbecue on the deck and enjoy a moment of Indian summer.

From the window of the recovery room, I saw that the weather had changed my plans. It was pouring. The day got busy, and I realized I had no plan - and no groceries - for indoor dinner.

One of my favorite cooking activities is making fresh pasta, but I have never thought of it as a last-minute dinner idea. I had a recipe from Gourmet Magazine which had about 50 ingredients. After multiple steps and almost as many hours, it came out perfect. Ideal for a Saturday, but not quite Tuesday evening material. I had forgotten those details when I called my friend, explained my plan for the new menu, and dashed home from work.

My cupboards were embarrasingly bare. I could not find the recipe. I had a pile of cookbooks, but no time to fish through them for recipe hints. I had no cake flour, which I believed to be essential to this endeavor. So - just as I do in my work when I am looking for an elusive answer - I turned to Google. "All-purpose flour fresh pasta?" I implored.

Here's the recipe I found:
1 1/2 cups flour
2 eggs
a splash of olive oil and a pinch of salt

It took just a few minutes to make the dough, I rested it 30 minutes while we chatted and had a salad tossed together of tomatoes, avocados and fresh mozzarella, and then rolled it out. Right away, I tossed it into the boiling water, and just a few minutes later - DELICIOUS. I was so proud. For the first time, I understand how Italian grannies can toss fresh pasta together for their families for an ordinary meal. We made linguini because that is what my pasta roller can make, but next time? Orechiette!

Sunday, August 31, 2008

Eclairs with elan

Orange Chocolate Mini-Eclairs with Chocolate Glaze


I'm going to post for Abby since it is the Daring Baker's deadline and this is our first challenge and she seems to have abandoned this post after coming up with just the title, and a nice one at that.
Just to provide some context, the way this blog came to be is that I (Anna) joined an online baking group called the Daring Bakers. The Daring Bakers is a group of amateur baking enthusiasts and bloggers (not quite as dorky as it sounds...ok, maybe it is.) Anyway, each month a member of the Daring Bakers proposes a "challenge" to the group in the form of a recipe that each member has to make and report about on their respective blogs. There is no point other than to try new recipes and maybe push the limits of what you might try making if left purely to your own devices. I thought it sounded like fun so I recruited Abby to join me in this endeavor.

So, we are off to a stellar start because I didn't even get a chance to make the DB challenge this month (chocolate eclairs). Abby and I made the pastry part when I was visiting her a few weeks ago but we ran out of time to finish them together. I thought I would have time to make my own batch at home sometime but, what can I say, I was out of town and then hosting Ryan's family and before I knew it the "deadline" was upon me. I must say missing a deadline is not an entirely unfamiliar position to have found myself in so I know that it is best not to make too many excuses as it just draws more attention. So, with that in mind let me present the results of ABIGAIL'S Chocolate Eclair experiment. They look delicious! She served them at a little party she hosted on her roofdeck a few weeks ago. I'm sorry that I wasn't in NYC to enjoy them myself. I plan to make them next week so perhaps I'll post my results as an addendum. And Abby, you can fill in some of the critical details that I missed.

The challenge was to make chocolate eclairs with chocolate glaze. You could change one of the chocolate elements if you chose, so we decided to make orange chocolate custard filling. Again, I didn't taste them, but Abby reports that the guests at her party gobbled them all up and a few were seen stuffing mini-eclairs into their pockets and handbags for later. Actually, I just made that up. Abby's friends are not that type. They are, however, the type who stuff bottles of booze under their coats as they make a run for the door at my wedding after party...but that's another story!

This is Abby's kitchen. Can you believe that such scrumptious creations come out of such a tiny space? She's a genius! We had to make mini-eclairs because her mini-stove can only accommodate mini-pans. And also mini-eclairs have mini-calories.

We used a small pastry tip (the only one we had) so we had to go back and forth to form the eclairs. We weren't sure that it would work but it did really well.



There's Abby. What a babe! She is by far the sweetest confection in this kitchen!

This is Abby:

I am so proud of myself for learning how to add to a post on here. I am not the "blogging champion" that my big sister is, and so I didn't even realize that my title would get saved. I worried that I would face dire consequences at the hands of the Daring Bakers for posting before the end of the month about the ultra-secret challenge. I am such an amateur...

To add to what Anna said about our eclair-making: an important detail is that we made the dough together on my birthday. It was sandwiched between two overnight calls for me, and so it was such a treat to get to see Anna and her adorable younger baby, Elliot, who encouraged our daring baking from his perch on the couch. OK, Elliot pretty much slept through it, but it was fun to look at him. And we got sidetracked because two of our cousins showed up with flowers and then it was time to go to work... So after making the little dough torpedos, we tabled the project.

It seemed slightly unconventional, but we had seen frozen eclairs at the supermarket before, so I decided to freeze the dough to continue the project when I had time. The party was actually more than a week later. After a few days, I made the chocolate orange creme and the glaze. (Just a splash of orange essence into the creme patissiere). I put the creme and the glaze into the frozen shells and stuck the lot back in the freezer. How daring!

On the day of my birthday party, I just let the eclairs come back to room temperature over several hours. No one was the wiser. While what Anna says about bite-size eclairs is true, but the mini-calories add up when you pop them into your mouth like peanuts!

No one tried to run out the door with eclairs in hand, but the felons from Anna's wedding were busy in other states. I did get a request from a new friend for the recipe, which I count as a success for our first baking experiment. I look forward to the next challenge.

Two Grand Slam Suppers

Ryan's parents have been in town for the last few days and I cooked two meals that turned out really well. I love to cook and I love even more to be able to cook for friends or family. I am always psyched when I can coordinate cooking something good with having guests over. Sometimes my timing is a little off and I'll make something AWESOME and there is no one (expect me and Ryan) to eat it, or we'll have guests and the meal will be awful. So it goes. Anyway, these are two meals that I really knocked out of the park (if I may boast).


Carnitas or Mexican Pulled Pork (adapted from Cook's Illustrated)

1 (3 1/2 -4 lb) boneless pork butt, cut into 2-inch chunks
1 tsp salt
1/2 tsp pepper
1 tsp cumin
1 small onion, peeled and halved
2 bay leaves
1 tsp dried oregano
1 cinnamon stick
1 TBS brown sugar
juice from one lime
2 cups water
1 medium orange, halved and squeezed


1) OVEN BRAISE Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position and heat to 350. Combine pork and all above ingredients in a large dutch-oven (liquid should just cover meat). Bring mixture to a simmer over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally. Cover pot and transfer to the oven; cook for 2 hours, stirring once.


2) REDUCE Remove pot from oven and turn oven to broil. With slotted spoon transfer pork to bowl; remove and discard orange halves, onion, bay leaves, cinnamon stick, etc. Place pot over high heat and simmer, stirring frequently until reduced to about 1 cup (8-12 minutes). Liquid should be thick and syrupy.

3) BROIL Using 2 forks, pull each piece of pork in half. Toss the pork with the glaze, season with salt and pepper if needed. Spread pork in even layer on wire rack above a baking sheet. Broil on the lower-middle rack in the oven to get the edges nice and crisp.

4) SERVE We used flour tortillas, but corn would also work well. I made a simple salsa with a tomato from my garden, half a shallot, minced garlic and chopped cilantro (it would have been pico de gallo if I had a jalapeno). Sour cream, lime and some extra cilantro were are all it took to make awesome tacos. Cook's Illustrated recommends thinly sliced radishes as another garnish. Next time I'll try that and perhaps some avocado.

Perfect Roast Chicken (Adapted from The Barefoot Contessa cookbook)

So, I got a little bashful about photographing my dinner plate so there is no picture but trust me that this is a beautiful as well as delicious recipe. And so easy! Oh, Ina Garten, I do love you. She promised that this recipe would produce perfect chicken, and boy did it live up to her claims.

All you have to do is rinse and pat dry a 4-5 lbs. chicken. Salt and pepper the inside cavity. Chop a lemon into quarters, stuff that inside, along with a few sprigs of fresh thyme. Salt and pepper the outside (Ina wants you to rub melted butter on the skin, too...I say that is a bit too much work and too much cholesterol thank you very much. I used a bit of olive oil just to make the salt and pepper stick.) Roughly chop an onion, spread it in the roasting pan. Put the chicken on top of the onions. Stick it in the oven at 425 for an hour and a half. Beautiful.

I made a nice gravy with the pan drippings (first make a roux: cook 2 TBS flour in 2 TBS butter, then mix in the pan drippings and about a cup of chicken broth). I served this with rice pilaf and sauteed zucchini and squash. It was really, really good.

To make a simple rice pilaf, toast some orzo (1/4 cup?) in butter until it's nicely browned and then add rice (1 cup) and chicken broth (2 cups). Bring to a boil and then simmer for 15 minutes. It's nice if you have some fresh parsley or other herb to mix in, but you don't need it.

Monday, August 11, 2008

What's Shakin?

We are blogging together from the Yankee outpost of the Cackalacky Kitchen (Abby's apartment in the West Village). Anna came up to NYC this weekend for a Brennan family gathering (more about that in my family blog) and to celebrate Abby's birthday. We are making the Daring Bakers challenge today after a quick trip to Chelsea Market for provisions. It will be especially challenging given her miniature oven and two of us trying to cram into her tiny kitchen. We'll post our results later.

No trip to NYC in the summer would be complete without a trip to the Shake Shack for a burger and shake. Despite the long lines (we waited a full hour!) we adore this place. Maybe it is the Valrhona chocolate shakes or the impossibly crispy fries or the secret "shack sauce" on the burgers. What ever it is, they have gotten our vote for perfect summer eats. Here are some picture of our trip:

Abby realizes that the tantalizing shroomburger is finally within her grasp... Look at that smile.
One of the secrets of shake shack is the frozen custard. More fatty and silky than any of its frozen dessert relatives, it can be eaten on its own, stirred into a shake, or spun into a devilish "concrete" - just gooey frozen mud and chunks of whatever your heart desires.
Abby could not get her mitts far enough away from the fries for the photo op.
Faux-fifties style menu - refreshingly simple and just hits the spot!
Elliot, now 3 months old, is ready to be indoctrinated in shake shack. He seems up to the challenge, being a champion eater of dairy already :)

Wednesday, August 6, 2008

Daring to bake, in the tradition of Marie Blanche


As a resident in obstetrics and gynecology, my regular diet consists of yogurt eaten while walking around the hospital, lunch that has been squished in a bag all day, and late-night snacks from wherever is open. This hardly qualifies me as a "food blogger", so I thought I would explain how it came to be that my sister has trusted me with co-blogging with her about our culinary adventures.

Our father, mentioned in my first blog as a true gourmand, is another doctor who finds a second calling as a chef. Growing up, my sister and I would experience hunger pains as he flexed his muscles in the kitchen. Hours after we had already snacked away our appetites, we would sample duck confit and rosemary-and-garlic infused pork loin. We saw the pleasure that experimenting in the kitchen brought him, and sampled its products to our delight. Our foodie-ism was cultivated by our family vacations, when a not-uncommon topic for lunch discussion would be plans for dinner. Indeed, at dinner, we might discuss how the following day of skiing or touring might be complimented by a fine meal.

One weekend while I was in college, I visited my father and made "The Perfect Flan", a favorite from the epicurious website. I followed the directions to the letter, substituting only some low-fat milk. Despite my not having any creative input in the process of making said flan, Dad was convinced: I had missed my calling.

THE PERFECT FLAN
1 3/4 cups whipping cream
1 cup milk
Pinch of salt

1/2 vanilla bean, split lengthwise
1 cup and 7 tablespoons sugar

1/3 cup water
3 large eggs and 2 yolks

*Position rack in the center of 350 degree oven
*Combine cream, milk, salt in heavy saucepan. Scrape seeds into cream, add bean. Bring to
simmer and remove from heat. Steep 30 min.
*Combine 1 cup sugar and water in another

saucepan over low heat until dissolved, then at high heat until syrup turns deep amber (about 10 min).
*Pour syrup into ramekins and turn to coat.
Set ramekins into a Bain Marie.
*Whisk eggs and yolks and rest of sugar until
blended, add to cream gently.
*Fill ramekins and bake 40 minutes, then cool.
Refrigerate overnight, then turn onto dish to
serve.

"Why, Abigail, would you become a doctor? If you became a chef you could really HELP people and make then HAPPY!" He was distraught, just as most fathers would be to hear that their children wanted to go to medical school.

The result: I was shipped off to France, to learn from a shrill-voiced, jolly and somewhat snooty, rotund Frenchwoman "Cuisine et l'arte de vivre". Marie Blanche, as she was called, would teach me "cooking and the art of living." Far be it for the French to accept that rude Americans and other culinary tourists in Paris would understand how to negotiate polite society. In between lessons on "Saumon a l'unilaterale" and "Petit moulleux chauds au chocolat" (which roughly translates as "little soft warm things of chocolate" - what's not to love?), she taught us how not to offend fine diners by choosing the wrong glasses for our wines from Alsace, how to properly invite guests to a dinner, and how to decorate a table in a manner that was not too gauche.For a month, I passed by the Eiffel Tower and the Chateau des Invalides as I wound my way through the streets of the 7eme and 8eme arrondissements, I visited markets full of pungent cheeses and strolled along the Seine. At lunch, we would have chilled red wines from the Loire Valley, and toast our creations. I befriended a pair of Mexican girls who were determined to bring their skills home to start a restaurant in Mexico City, and we spoke a mangled mix of French and English and Spanish. But in the end, I came home to trot myself into the library with a Clif bar.

As my sister finished her own studies, and has made herself an expert in the kitchen by combining her excellent taste with her refined knowledge of all things vegetable gained through her study of botany and her work in gardens and plantations, we have enjoyed an ongoing conversation about all things delicious. As Anna tested out meals on her growing family, running a small scale catering business, she learned many practical skills and delicious recipes. Together, we would scour the farmers markets in Ithaca, Richmond and Raleigh.

She got me a subscription of Gourmet magazine before I started medical school, which I have continued. As I pour through its pages on my way back and forth to work on the subway, I imagine myself dicing and simmering, stirring and kneading. On the weekends, I often unwind from my work by rolling out pastas and baking.

When we get together, sparks and crumbs fly. We almost always find a time to cook together, catching up on our lives as we bustle around the kitchen. We are sometimes graced by the instinctive genius of guest chef, discriminating eater and tricyclist, Oliver.

As tasty as our confections may be, it is these moments in the kitchen together that are the sweetest.

Sunday, August 3, 2008

Marinated Grilled Chicken Breast with Watermelon-Jalapeno Salsa


We grilled out on Wednesday night and this is what we made. It was delicious. The recipe was from Cooking Light. I didn't have a mango on hand (strange but true, given my intense love affair with all things mango) but I did have a fresh watermelon from our CSA, so I just made it without the mango. This salsa is sweet and tangy and salty and crunchy...it's like a junk food addict's dream concoction except it's actually healthy. I will definitely make this again.

Marinated Grilled Chicken Breast with Watermelon-Jalapeno Salsa
*I made some modifications, you can find the original recipe here.
Ingredients
1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano
1 tablespoon extravirgin olive oil
1 teaspoon chili powder
3/4 teaspoon ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon salt
3 garlic cloves, minced
1 tablespoon brown sugar
1 tablespoon lime juice
4 (6-ounce) skinless, boneless chicken breast halves

4 cups (1/2-inch) cubed seeded watermelon
1/4 cup finely chopped shallot
2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
2 tablespoons finely chopped seeded jalapeƱo pepper (about 1 small)
1 tablespoon fresh lime juice
1 teaspoon sugar
1 tablespoon fish sauce (sounds gross, I know, trust me it works)

Preparation
Combine first 6 ingredients in a large zip-top plastic bag. Add chicken to bag; seal. Marinate in refrigerator up to 4 hours, turning bag occasionally.
Prepare grill.
Place chicken on a grill rack. Grill 5 minutes on each side or until done. Combine watermelon and remaining ingredients. Serve watermelon mixture with chicken.


We served this with grilled zucchini and squash.